I write as someone who has lived in Kingston and loves it. A ikkle bit of my heart will forever be in Jamaica. You can find our other Jamaica holiday suggestions here.
This is the first of what I am sure will be many blog posts about Jamaica’s capital and possible itineraries for visitors.
Kingston has a certain rep; and it’s not one that your average tourist might find particularly welcoming or reassuring. To this I would say that every large city has places that are best avoided; be sensible, be careful, be aware, take guidance and don’t take unnecessary risks. With all of this in mind, I encourage you, to escape the all-inclusive bubble, step to the edge of your comfort zone (or beyond) and take time to explore a more authentic Jamaica whilst you’re on island. And Jamaica’s jammin’ capital is a great place to start!
Kingston is a city that marches to its own (reggae beat) drum. It oozes culture, history, sport and has a lively arts and emerging foodie scene. There really is nowhere better than Kingston to dip your toe into Jamaica’s history and culture. Spend a day there, or better yet spend a night or two and really explore Kingston and the surrounding area. (see separate blog for ideas of where to stay in Kingston)
So … in no particular order here are the first four of my ‘things to do in Kingston’ ideas. Enjoy!
Bob Marley Museum
You can’t visit Jamaica without experiencing Bob! No, really, you cant - he’s everywhere.
An iconic figure across the world, in Kingston Bob has attained near God-like status.
Bob’s former home at 56 Hope Road is now the Bob Marley Museum. Tours of the museum are guided, fun and relaxed. The guides are experts on all things Bob and enthusiastic and impassioned. This is about more than just Bob though, by the very nature of the man himself - you’ll also get a glimpse into some of the Jamaica’s recent social history.
I have visited the Bob Marley museum with Marley-virgins, whose concept of Bob was solely as a dreadlocked rasta – and those friends have been surprised and moved by Bob’s story and legacy. I challenge you to visit and not be touched by the experience.
(I also recommend a visit to the Culture Yard in Trenchtown – make sure that you book this through your hotel who can advise on a tour guide. Downtown Trenchtown is not somewhere you should visit alone. I have many happy memories of the Culture Yard from my time living in Kingston. I am smiling as I type and remember. Go with an open and warm heart.)
Port Royal
A short drive out of Kingston, past the airport, at the far end of the Palisadoes at the mouth of Kingston Harbour, you will find Port Royal.
Don’t go to Port Royal expecting all mod-cons and a 21st century digitized tourist destination. That’s not what Port Royal is about. The town is now a sleepy, quiet place – with some great seafood restaurants.
When I first visited, back in the early ‘00s, we sat outside at one of the fish places for lunch. I asked the waiter what the fish of the day was; he shrugged, put his hand up to shade his eyes, looked out across the sea at a small boat in the far distance and said ‘dunno yet, depend what he come back with’. And you don’t get a seafood lunch much fresher than that!! (It was grilled Parrot fish in the end.)
Described in its piracy hay day as ‘the wickedest city in the west’ an earthquake in 1692 saw most of the city swallowed by the sea, what remains of the old city gives a glimpse of times gone by. Check out Fort Charles, the oldest remaining fort in Jamaica dating from circa 1655. You’ll be walking in famous footsteps as you tour the ramparts; a young Horatio Nelson was posted here in around 1780. And don’t miss the Giddy House, just a short walk away.
If you are planning a visit to Port Royal, perhaps combine it with a boat charter and go out to visit one of the small sand-bar islands just out of Kingston Harbour. Lime Cay and Maiden Cay are very accessible, the water is beautifully clear and you can do some great snorkelling here. I have seen sting ray, shoals of snapper, dolphins and lots of pretty little fish (apologies to the fish aficionados among you!) whilst snorkeling here.
Boats can be chartered locally – be sure to book well in advance and ask for a catered package if you want to enjoy a ‘picnic lunch’ on board. It is also possible to arrange to snorkel or scuba close to Port Royal.
As a side note - boats tend to sail out of The Grand Port Royal Hotel – used to be Morgan’s Harbour. James Bond fans will recognize the Morgan’s Harbour name from the first James Bond movie, Dr No. It’s where Sean Connery's James meets his CIA counterpart, Felix for the first time. Sadly, little remains of the original hotel. But the drive out to Port Royal remains pretty much unchanged since James drove his Sunbeam Alpine out there in 1962! And the hotel is still a great place for a sundowner when you’re done exploring Port Royal and the Cays.
Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are magnificent. They provide a stunning backdrop to Kingston and look pretty amazing from every angle. The true beauty though is found by venturing up into the mountains; the views back over Kingston, the mountain scenery, the tropical plants and flowers, the hummingbirds - it's truly breath-taking!
If you’re a coffee fan, or even if you’re not, join a Blue Mountain coffee tour. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is among the finest (and most expensive) in the world. Get to see where and how the coffee is grown, take a look at the roasting process and generally marvel at the Blue Mountain scenery. There are a few tours to choose from ranging from an hour to a whole day.
If you’d rather just enjoy a cup of coffee and skip touring the coffee plants, then you can’t beat Café Blue at Irish Town. Perched on the side of the mountain with stunning views, the staff are welcoming and the menu delicious.
One of my favourite Blue Mountain treats is to call into Strawberry Hill to enjoy a special brunch or cocktail. Make sure you phone first to check availability. Strawberry Hill would also be one of my recommended places to stay in the Kingston area. Whilst not in the city, the views are spectacular and the hotel is very special indeed.
Blue Mountain Peak is the island’s highest point at 2256m. If you really want to do the Blue Mountains justice then join a guided hike to the top. The best way to experience this is to leave in the wee small hours of the morning and make it to the top (approximately 4 hours hike) to watch sun up. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Cuba.
One of my favourite days out of Kingston is a trip to Cinchona Gardens. This is a dry weather trip, not for the rainy season – the road can become impassible in the rains. You will need a local guide and 4x4 to access. The gardens were founded in 1868 with a focus on growing Assam tea and cinchona (the bark was used to fight malaria). The views across the Blue Mountains, Strawberry Hill and Kingston are breath taking. At an altitude of 4500 ft, the Gardens are the highest in the Caribbean and considerably cooler than the weather in Kingston – go prepared with a sweater and waterproof.
Devon House
Devon House was build in the late 19th century by Jamaica’s first black millionaire, George Stiebel. The mansion sits in the centre of Kingston and is an oasis of Georgian calm. Enjoy a tour of the house and then take a bit of retail therapy at some of the beautiful shops located in the grounds.
And don’t miss a Devon House i-scream! The ice cream here is among the best I have tasted anywhere in the world. Don’t just take my word for it – National Geographic have included Devon House on their global Top Ten Places to Eat Ice cream numerous times.
Feeling inspired? Get in touch to start planning your Jamaica holiday.